Udatsu Sushi

Udatsu Sushi occupies the Stable Block of FWD House 1881, the former Marine Police headquarters in Tsim Sha Tsui. It is the first overseas branch of Hisashi Udatsu's Tokyo restaurant, and head chef Hiroki Nakamura, a long-time protégé, runs a 12-seat counter cut from ancient cypress while jazz plays in the background.

A single omakase uses Toyosu fish flown in daily alongside some local fish and vegetables, with rice dressed in one of two vinegars depending on the cut. Expect playful touches such as local eel nigiri, smoked otoro and a herb roll. Dinner costs HK$2,380 and lunch HK$880 to HK$1,180, plus 10% service. Seasonal sake comes from small breweries.

It suits diners who want top-grade sushi in a more relaxed room than the usual hushed counter. There are two seatings, at lunch and at 7pm or 7.30pm, from Tuesday to Saturday. Book through inline; WhatsApp is for enquiries only. Sister restaurants operate in Tokyo and Los Angeles.