Nagamoto

Nagamoto is on the eighth floor of 18 On Lan Street in Central. Chef Teruhiko Nagamoto, a native of Kyoto, built the restaurant around shun, the Japanese idea of cooking ingredients at their seasonal peak. It holds one Michelin star and seats up to 12 at the chef's counter, with two private rooms.

A single kaiseki omakase of ten to 13 courses changes every month. The October menu runs from sakizuke with kuruma prawn, caviar and sea urchin through hassun, a clear soup of salt-grilled tilefish, two rounds of sashimi and Wagyu sukiyaki with matsutake, to steamed abalone and anago sushi. It costs HK$2,680 plus 10% service; Japanese black abalone and Ise lobster are occasional extras.

It suits diners who want a classical kaiseki meal with a view of the chefs shaving katsuobushi and making dashi. Allow at least two and a half hours, as all guests start together. Dinner runs Monday to Saturday and lunch on Saturdays and holidays; book through SevenRooms.