Nikutoieba Matsuda

Nikutoieba Matsuda is a small Wagyu kappo restaurant on Gough Street in Central, the Hong Kong branch of a restaurant that opened in Nara in 2015. Guests sit at an L-shaped counter of nine seats, and chef Kenichi Osato leads the kitchen. Two private rooms are also available.

The 13-course omakase is built almost entirely around Wagyu, with no fish or vegetable interludes. Courses move through loin, tenderloin sukiyaki and Wagyu torotaku, and dishes change through the year. Two constants are the Wagyu tartare sushi wrapped in toasted nori and the fillet cutlet sandwich of chateaubriand with a tartare sauce made with Narazuke pickles. The set costs HK$1,280 per person.

It suits beef lovers who want a counter meal focused on a single ingredient. Dinner runs Tuesday to Sunday from 7pm, with lunch at weekends. Seats are hard to get, so book well ahead by phone.