Sushi Saito Hong Kong

Sushi Saito occupies a quiet counter on the 45th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong in Central. It is the overseas branch of Takashi Saito's celebrated Tokyo restaurant, and the master's protégés run the counter here, led by executive chef Ryosuke Nawata.

Saito still selects the seafood himself each morning at Toyosu Market in Tokyo, and it is flown to Hong Kong for same-day service. The omakase moves through seasonal appetisers into a long run of Edomae nigiri, with otoro, shirako in season and the restaurant's signature roll among the highlights. Lunch costs HK$1,980 and dinner HK$3,480 per person.

This is one for serious sushi diners who want the Saito style without travelling to Tokyo. Bookings are taken by phone and open well ahead, so plan early and keep dates flexible. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays, and corkage is available for diners who bring their own bottle.